Monday, October 15, 2007

Yes, I know this scallops is gorgeous...

I am totally in love with seared sea scallops. A perfect and classy and fulfilling meal! Sea scallops are so sweet and delicious that I like to call them the candy of the sea.

This is how I get the perfect sear. It is unbelievably fast and wonderful.

First, wash the scallops off and then dry them on a paper towel. Then, lightly salt and pepper both sides of the scallops.

Then make sure that you are using a nonstick metal pan so you can see when your butter starts to get brown. Throw in around half a tablespoon or a tablespoon of unsalted butter and watch it until it starts to turn golden brown. This means the pan is at the right temperature for the scallops. Place the scallops in far enough apart so that they do not affect each other (if they are too close, they could actually steam each other, preventing nice carmelization). After about 1-2 minutes (depending on size, leave in longer), using tongs, flip your scallops over. The butter should be sizzling. Do not, under any circumstances, move your scallops from their place on the pan until ready to flip. Once you flip over, take pan off heat and cook second side for thirty seconds until done. Voila!

Kiwi Sorbet














Celebrating the 8/$1 kiwis at Haymarket.

Sunday, October 7, 2007

Butternut squash risotto with spinach and mushrooms


I tried this risotto a couple weeks ago for the first time, modifying an epicurious recipe by adding parmesan cheese not just as a garnish but as part of the risotto and also substituting spinach and mushrooms for textural contrast (instead of leeks).

Here is the modified recipe. It was an unqualified success.

1 large butternut squash (about 2 pounds), peeled, seeded, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
4 tablespoons olive oil

6 cups (about) chicken stock or canned low-salt chicken broth (you can also use 1/2 chicken stock and 1/2 water)


2 cups arborio rice or medium-grain rice
1/2 cup dry white wine
1/2 cup whipping cream
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
spinach and mushrooms, sauteed, however much you like!

Preparation

Preheat oven to 400°F. Place squash on large rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper; toss to coat. Roast until tender and beginning to brown, stirring occasionally, about 40 minutes. After butternut squash is roasted and tender, place in food processor or blender to puree. This will allow for a more even butternut squash presence although you can keep it chunky if you prefer.

Bring stock to simmer in heavy large saucepan. Reduce heat to very low; cover and keep stock warm.

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in another heavy large saucepan over medium-low heat. Add rice; stir 1 minute. Add wine and simmer until absorbed, stirring constantly, about 2 minutes. Add 1/2 cup hot stock; simmer until absorbed, stirring frequently. Add remaining stock 1/2 cup at a time, allowing stock to be absorbed before adding more and stirring frequently, until rice is tender and mixture is creamy, about 25 minutes longer.

While stirring, saute down spinach and mushrooms.

Add roasted squash puree, cream, Parmesan cheese and spinach and mushrooms; stir until evenly mixed and heated through. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve warm.

Makes 6 servings.

Sunday, September 9, 2007

Dumpling House


Just a little bit of food pornography to promote Dumpling House on Grand and Essex, one block off the B, D Grand stop in Chinatown, NYC. Look at that amazing pan-fried crust. Five for a dollar! What could be better, seriously?

Rice-flaked Tilapia in Watermelon Curry


The inaugural dinner in my new Boston apartment was this rice-flaked tilapia in watermelon curry. It is a homemade version of the dish that is a hallmark at Floyd Cardoz's excellent restaurant, Tabla. We used tilapia instead of halibut because of market availability, but the essence of the dish is a smooth fish with a pan-fried layer of rice flakes (Poha thick?-- if you're in New York, you can find it at Foods of India, 121 Lexington Avenue @26th Street). The watermelon curry is a complex melding of flavors both sweet and spicy. I am sure that the restaurant prepares its curry in a much more soup-like fashion.

Modifications to this recipe would include a more simple egg wash to coat the fish instead of the tricky one they describe. There is also really no need to finish the fish in the oven, unless you want to be extra safe.

Chef Floyd Cardoz's Rice Flake Crisped Halibut, Watermelon and Wilted Watercress Curry


This recipe, as served at Tabla in New York City, serves 4.

INGREDIENTS
For Watermelon and Watercress:

  • 2 1/2 T olive oil
  • 1 t cumin seeds
  • 2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped fine
  • 1 T minced ginger root
  • 1/2 t coriander seeds, freshly ground
  • 1/4 t turmeric
  • 1/4 t aleppo pepper, freshly ground (if you can't find aleppo, use any good, dried red chili powder...but then eliminate the pinch of cayenne pepper)
  • 1 pinch cayenne pepper
  • 1 1/2 C watermelon juice, made in blender
  • Salt to taste
  • Juice of two limes
  • 2 C watermelon, seeded and cut into 1/2 inch cubes
  • 1 bunch watercress, picked of its thick stems and chopped in half
  • Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

    For Halibut:
  • 4 pieces halibut
  • 2 egg yolks
  • 2 T flour
  • 4 ounces "beaten rice" flakes (if you can't find them at an Indian grocery, use cornmeal or uncooked Cream of Wheat instead)
  • Cayenne pepper to taste
  • 2 T corn or canola oil
  • 1 T butter

    For Topping:
  • Zest of one lime, without any white skin
  • Flesh of one lime, sliced into little segments

    METHOD
    For Sauce:
    1. Place a large heavy-bottomed pan over medium heat. Put in 2 T olive oil and heat. Add the cumin seeds and cook until fragrant (about 1/2 a minute), making sure that the seeds do not burn. Add the chopped garlic and ginger, and cook for 1/2 a minute more, stirring constantly. Reduce the heat and add the ground spices to the pot, stir and cook for a few seconds. Next, add the watermelon juice. Return to high heat and rapidly reduce the watermelon juice until it reaches 1/8 of its original volume. Season with salt and the lime juice. Store until ready to use. Actually, it's preferable to make this curry up to 6 hours in advance, to let the flavors mellow and blend with standing.

    2. Just before you're ready to eat, reheat the watermelon curry and keep warm. Heat a large heavy-bottomed saute pan, and add the remaining 1/2 T olive oil. When oil is hot, add the diced watermelon and quickly saute so that the watermelon just warms up. Add the curry sauce and continue to cook rapidly, taking care that the watermelon does not disintegrate. Next, add the watercress and continue to cook until the watercress starts to wilt. Season with salt and black pepper and serve immediately. Note: this step should not take more than five minutes.

    For Halibut:
    1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
    2. Make an egg wash with egg yolk, flour, salt and pepper.
    3. Brush one side of the halibut with egg wash.
    4. Press the egg-washed side of halibut in rice flakes (or corn meal or Cream of Wheat) to give it a good coating (this can be done up to 2 hours before).
    5. Heat a skillet on medium heat and add corn oil. When the oil is hot, saute the fish -- coated side down -- until rice flakes get a light color.
    6. Turn fish over and continue to cook.
    7. When fish is almost done, turn over once more and add the butter.
    8. Finish cooking until just barely done (up to four minutes) in a 400 degree oven. This helps it cook thoroughly and evenly.

    TO ASSEMBLE
    Ladle the watermelon curry into broad bowls or onto plates. Top with the halibut filets, and then top each piece of halibut with a clump of lime segments and lime zest.
  • Monday, June 25, 2007

    Pies-n-Thighs: Worth the hike to Williamsburg?



    Is Pies-n-Thighs worth the trip to hella out of the way Williamsburg? For those who don't know, PNT is located on 351 Kent Ave (under the W-burg bridge) but is actually located on South 5th Street. There is no convenient subway stop. The L to Bedford is quite a distance and the J, M, Z to Marcy Ave is only five or ten minutes closer.

    Fortunately I hitched a ride to PNT in a car, but sadly for brunch, where I could not take advantage of the much-touted pulled pork sandwich.

    Instead, we had biscuits and gravy, a throwback to my days in Raleigh, NC, filling up on sausage-laden cream and flaky, buttery biscuits. The PNT version, as you can see, has large chunks of sausage, perhaps too large to my liking.

    Of the chicken and waffles, only the chicken lived up to its reputation. While the chicken was good, it wouldn't make me come out here again. In addition, the buckwheat waffle couldn't live up to my ideal waffle: buttery goodness baked up into a crunchy layer of crust. Instead, it was mostly soggy and definitely lacking in flavor and texture.

    Vietnamese: New Pasteur in Chinatown

    A couple days ago I went back to my Vietnamese hole in the wall in Chinatown. New Pasteur is located on 85 Baxter St 10013. Closest subway is Canal Street N, Q, R, 4, 5, 6, J, M, Z.

    Must haves:
    1. Salt and pepper shrimp: Shrimp is flash fried, crispy and salty. Has a beautiful thin crust on the outside. Delightfully garlicky.

    2. Banh Hoi Bo Nuong (see picture!) - bbq'd beef w/ slice rice vermicelli, salad, pancakes (1st item on front left cover of the menu): Unbelievable every time. Wrap the beef dripping with juices in mint with a little bit of vermicelli noodles and scallions in a paper thin wrapper.

    The great thing about this beef is the combination of texture and flavor that captures the essence of really great food. The crunch peanuts, the tender beef, the soft noodles, plus the fresh tang of mint! AMAZING!


    Don't bother getting the BBQed pork, although I do think pork has the potential to have a wider flavor profile than beef. The beef is much better.