Rice-flaked Tilapia in Watermelon Curry

The inaugural dinner in my new Boston apartment was this rice-flaked tilapia in watermelon curry. It is a homemade version of the dish that is a hallmark at Floyd Cardoz's excellent restaurant, Tabla. We used tilapia instead of halibut because of market availability, but the essence of the dish is a smooth fish with a pan-fried layer of rice flakes (Poha thick?-- if you're in New York, you can find it at Foods of India, 121 Lexington Avenue @26th Street). The watermelon curry is a complex melding of flavors both sweet and spicy. I am sure that the restaurant prepares its curry in a much more soup-like fashion.

Modifications to this recipe would include a more simple egg wash to coat the fish instead of the tricky one they describe. There is also really no need to finish the fish in the oven, unless you want to be extra safe.

Chef Floyd Cardoz's Rice Flake Crisped Halibut, Watermelon and Wilted Watercress Curry

This recipe, as served at Tabla in New York City, serves 4.

INGREDIENTS
For Watermelon and Watercress:

2 1/2 T olive oil 1 t cumin seeds 2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped fine 1 T minced ginger root 1/2 t coriander seeds, freshly ground 1/4 t turmeric 1/4 t aleppo pepper, freshly ground (if you can't find aleppo, use any good, dried red chili powder...but then eliminate the pinch of cayenne pepper) 1 pinch cayenne pepper 1 1/2 C watermelon juice, made in blender Salt to taste Juice of two limes 2 C watermelon, seeded and cut into 1/2 inch cubes 1 bunch watercress, picked of its thick stems and chopped in half Freshly ground black pepper, to taste For Halibut: 4 pieces halibut 2 egg yolks 2 T flour 4 ounces "beaten rice" flakes (if you can't find them at an Indian grocery, use cornmeal or uncooked Cream of Wheat instead) Cayenne pepper to taste 2 T corn or canola oil 1 T butter For Topping: Zest of one lime, without any white skin Flesh of one lime, sliced into little segments METHOD For Sauce: 1. Place a large heavy-bottomed pan over medium heat. Put in 2 T olive oil and heat. Add the cumin seeds and cook until fragrant (about 1/2 a minute), making sure that the seeds do not burn. Add the chopped garlic and ginger, and cook for 1/2 a minute more, stirring constantly. Reduce the heat and add the ground spices to the pot, stir and cook for a few seconds. Next, add the watermelon juice. Return to high heat and rapidly reduce the watermelon juice until it reaches 1/8 of its original volume. Season with salt and the lime juice. Store until ready to use. Actually, it's preferable to make this curry up to 6 hours in advance, to let the flavors mellow and blend with standing. 2. Just before you're ready to eat, reheat the watermelon curry and keep warm. Heat a large heavy-bottomed saute pan, and add the remaining 1/2 T olive oil. When oil is hot, add the diced watermelon and quickly saute so that the watermelon just warms up. Add the curry sauce and continue to cook rapidly, taking care that the watermelon does not disintegrate. Next, add the watercress and continue to cook until the watercress starts to wilt. Season with salt and black pepper and serve immediately. Note: this step should not take more than five minutes. For Halibut: 1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. 2. Make an egg wash with egg yolk, flour, salt and pepper. 3. Brush one side of the halibut with egg wash. 4. Press the egg-washed side of halibut in rice flakes (or corn meal or Cream of Wheat) to give it a good coating (this can be done up to 2 hours before). 5. Heat a skillet on medium heat and add corn oil. When the oil is hot, saute the fish -- coated side down -- until rice flakes get a light color. 6. Turn fish over and continue to cook. 7. When fish is almost done, turn over once more and add the butter. 8. Finish cooking until just barely done (up to four minutes) in a 400 degree oven. This helps it cook thoroughly and evenly. TO ASSEMBLE Ladle the watermelon curry into broad bowls or onto plates. Top with the halibut filets, and then top each piece of halibut with a clump of lime segments and lime zest.